A TNB blackout splits a smart home in two. Here is what each part does in the dark and when the power returns, and how to plan for both.
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In a power outage a smart home splits in two: battery devices such as locks and sensors keep going, while everything on the house supply, including the fibre modem, router, hub and smart plugs, goes dark. The cut itself is rarely the real problem. The trouble comes when the power returns: plugs that switch on by themselves, automations that fire at the wrong time, and sensors that never rejoin the hub. Decide what each device should do when the supply fails, keep the few boxes that hold the network together on backup power, and rehearse the restart once. It is the part of a dependable smart home that most people only discover in the dark.
When TNB supply drops, every device in the house falls into one of three groups within a second. Devices on the house supply with no battery simply stop. Devices with their own battery carry on but lose the network around them. Devices plugged into a backup supply keep running as if nothing happened, for as long as that backup lasts.
The second group is where people get confused. A battery door sensor still notices the door open, but the hub it reports to is off, so the message goes nowhere. A battery lock still opens with a PIN, but the app on your phone cannot reach it. The house is half awake, and nothing joins the halves together until the power comes back.
| Device | During the blackout | When the power returns |
|---|---|---|
| Fibre modem, router and mesh nodes | Off unless on backup power | Take a while to restart; everything waits |
| Zigbee or Thread hub | Off unless on backup power | Restarts; some devices rejoin by themselves |
| Smart plugs and relays | Off, and so is whatever they feed | Return to their power-on setting |
| Smart switches and wired lights | Off with the lights | Usually return to off or to the last state |
| Battery sensors and buttons | Still sense, but nobody receives the message | Report again once their parent is back |
| Battery smart lock | Keypad and fingerprint keep working | App and remote features return with the network |
| Mains-powered curtain motor | Stops wherever it was | May need its limits checked |
For every device that controls something physical, ask one question: when the power fails, what should this be doing? The answer is not always the same, and it should be a choice rather than an accident.
An uninterruptible power supply is an electrical apparatus that provides emergency power to a load when the mains fails, as Wikipedia describes it. In a smart home you do not need to back up everything. You need the handful of boxes that hold the network together, because they decide whether the battery devices can still reach you.
| Box | Why it matters in a blackout | Back it up? |
|---|---|---|
| Fibre modem from your provider | Without it there is no internet at all | Yes, together with the router |
| WiFi router or main mesh node | Carries the app, notifications and the hub's link | Yes |
| Zigbee hub, gateway or coordinator | Receives every sensor message and runs local automations | Yes |
| Thread border router or smart speaker acting as one | Links Thread devices to the network | Worth it if your locks or sensors use Thread |
| Camera recorder | Keeps recording while the house is dark | Often yes |
| Smart plugs, lights, aircon and fans | Heavy or non-essential loads | No |
How big the backup should be and which type to buy is a separate question, answered in the home UPS guide for routers and CCTV. The point here is the list: if the fibre modem, the router and the hub sit in three different rooms, one backup unit cannot cover them, and moving them to one spot is often the real job. Any mains electrical work, such as a new power point, a change at the distribution board or a hardwired switch that needs new wiring, must be done by an electrical contractor registered with Suruhanjaya Tenaga.
Most smart plugs and many relays have a setting, usually found in the device's options in the app, that decides what happens when power comes back: always off, always on, or return to the last state. Out of the box it is often set to off or to the last state, and few people ever look at it.
Go through the list once and set each one deliberately. A fridge or a fish-tank pump on a smart plug should come back on. A heater, an iron, a kettle or anything that should never run unattended should come back off. The smart water heater timer guide explains why a water heater should not restart on its own. Write the settings down; a factory reset or a firmware update can put them back to the default.
When the supply returns, every box restarts at once, but they are not equally quick. The router is often slower than the plugs and bulbs that join it, so WiFi devices try to reconnect, fail and wait. A hub that comes up before the router may not reach the cloud for a while. Most systems sort themselves out, but a few devices stay offline until someone restarts them.
If the same devices go missing after every outage, they are telling you something. Zigbee battery sensors that lose their parent router may not find a new one, a problem the guide to Zigbee range and repeaters deals with in detail.
Automations assume the house has been running all along. After an outage that assumption breaks, and the results can be odd: the porch light that should have come on at dusk stays off because the hub missed the moment, or a motion rule fires in an empty room as every sensor reports in at once.
A blackout is exactly when people want their security to work, and exactly when a smart-home alarm built on WiFi and the cloud is weakest. Battery sensors keep sensing, but the alert has to travel through the hub, the router and the internet, all of which are off unless backed up.
If security matters, back up the hub and the network as described above, and choose a siren or alarm panel with its own battery so the house can still make a noise locally. Water leak sensors are in the same position: the water leak sensor guide explains how local alarms and valves behave.
Not every outage is a clean cut. A storm can bring short flickers or a supply that dips without failing, and smart devices dislike both. Each flicker is a small restart, and some cheap devices lose their settings or need re-pairing after several in a row. Backup power on the network boxes smooths this out for the parts that matter most.
If the house itself trips repeatedly, the cause is in the electrical installation, not the smart home. The power tripping guide explains how to narrow it down, and adding more smart devices to a circuit that trips will not fix it.
A planned test on a calm afternoon teaches you more than any guide. Agree the steps with the family first, especially anyone elderly or a helper who is often home alone.
If an outage happens while the internet is fine but your smart home still misbehaves, the problem is a different one: the guide to local control without internet covers it.
We walk through your setup with you and mark what each device does when the power fails and when it returns. We set the power-on behaviour of plugs and relays, adjust the automations that misfire, group the router, hub and recorder where one backup unit can serve them, and re-pair the sensors that go missing after an outage. We do the smart device, app and low-voltage side of the job.
For smart switches and anything wired into the mains, we supply the devices and set up the app, and the switch or wiring work is done by an electrical contractor registered with Suruhanjaya Tenaga that we coordinate. Keep a printed copy of the restart steps somewhere easy to find, and make sure the hub and router accounts are in your own name.
This page is general guidance on smart homes during power cuts. Electrical faults and new power points are a matter for a registered electrical contractor, as noted above.
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