Out of sockets and living on extension leads? We add extra 13A, USB and weatherproof power points properly — concealed or trunking — across the Klang Valley.
Very few homes are built with enough sockets, and almost none are built with them in the right places for how you actually live years later. Adding a power point — a new 13A wall socket, a USB point, a weatherproof outlet on the porch — is one of the most common small electrical jobs there is, and one of the most satisfying, because it quietly removes a daily annoyance. It is also a job that rewards being done properly. A socket added well is fed from a circuit that can carry it, terminated cleanly, and finished so you would never know it was an afterthought. A socket added badly is spurred off whatever wire was nearest, adding load to a circuit that was already busy, and hiding its shortcuts inside the wall where you cannot see them. The good news is that doing it right is not much dearer than doing it badly — it just needs someone who treats a small job with the same care as a large one.
The symptoms are familiar to most Malaysian households. A single wall socket feeding a daisy chain of extension boards behind the TV or the study desk; a phone charging on the floor because the only free point is across the room; an adaptor stacked on an adaptor in the kitchen; a fan and a router fighting over one outlet in the bedroom; nowhere at all to plug in on the balcony or in the porch. Beyond the inconvenience, the extension-lead habit is a genuine safety issue: piling several appliances onto one socket through a trailing board concentrates load and heat at a single point, which is one of the situations a safety inspection flags most often. The fix is not another extension lead — it is a properly wired point where you keep needing one.
Pricing a single point is mostly about two things: how it is run (surface trunking versus concealed in the wall) and how far it is from the DB board or the nearest suitable supply. These are indicative Klang Valley ranges so you can sense-check a quote (market estimate 2026):
| Job | Indicative price | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Socket on surface trunking, near the DB | RM120 – RM250 | Fastest, no wall damage or patching |
| Concealed (chased-in) socket | RM200 – RM400 | Neater; includes cutting the wall and patching |
| Long run / far from the board | RM350 – RM600 | More cable and more chasing or trunking |
| USB / USB-C combo socket | RM150 – RM350 | Convert an existing point or add a new one |
| Weatherproof outdoor point | RM250 – RM500 | IP-rated, for porch, garden or balcony |
| Dedicated appliance circuit | from RM400 | New MCB and its own cable for aircon, heater or oven |
Two practical notes. First, most electricians have a minimum charge for a call-out, so doing several points on one visit is far better value than calling someone back for one socket at a time — plan the whole wish-list in one go. Second, a very cheap per-point price sometimes means the socket will be spurred onto an already-busy circuit rather than run correctly, which is a false economy you pay for later.
There are two ways to get a cable from the board to a new socket, and the choice is mostly about looks, mess and budget. Concealed wiring chases a groove into the wall, buries the cable, then plasters and paints over it so the finished point looks original — the neatest result, but it means dust, patching and a little more cost, and it is the natural choice during a renovation when the walls are already open. Surface trunking runs the cable inside a slim plastic casing fixed to the wall surface — faster, cheaper and cleaner to install with no hacking, at the price of a visible run. Trunking is the sensible pick in a service yard, a store, an office or anywhere function beats finish, or when you simply do not want the disruption of chasing. In living areas where appearance matters, most owners prefer concealed. A good electrician will tell you honestly which suits each point rather than defaulting to whichever is easier for them.
“A socket” is really several different fittings, and matching the type to the spot is part of the job:
| Socket type | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Standard 13A switched socket | General use throughout the home | Single or twin (double) — twin is the usual choice |
| Socket with built-in USB / USB-C | Bedsides, desks, kitchen counters | Charges phones and tablets without a plug adaptor |
| Weatherproof (IP-rated) outdoor socket | Porch, garden, balcony, wash area | Sealed against rain — never use an indoor socket outside |
| Dedicated / high-load outlet | Aircon, water heater, oven, EV | Fed by its own circuit and protection, not shared |
For most rooms a switched twin 13A socket is the workhorse; a USB point earns its place beside a bed or on a desk; and anything outdoors must be a proper weatherproof fitting, not an indoor socket in an exposed spot.
A quick tour of where owners most often add points. In the kitchen, counter appliances multiply — kettle, air-fryer, blender, rice cooker — and a couple of extra worktop sockets end the adaptor-stacking that is both annoying and a heat risk. In bedrooms, a socket or USB point on each side of the bed and one at a desk covers phones, lamps and a fan without trailing leads. In the living room, the wall behind the TV always wants more than it has once you add a soundbar, console and router. For anyone working from home, a dedicated cluster at the desk for a monitor, laptop, printer and charger is worth its weight. Outdoors, a weatherproof point on the porch or in the garden powers a pressure washer, festive lights or a fan and saves running a lead out through a window. And practical spots get forgotten — a point inside a cabinet for a router, one in the store for the vacuum, one near the dining table. It pairs naturally with other small upgrades too, from a ceiling fan to new lighting, when the electrician is already on site.
Not everything can hang off a general socket circuit. Heavy appliances draw far more current than a lamp or a TV, and safely feeding them means a dedicated circuit — its own cable of the right size run from the board, on its own protective device — rather than a point spurred off the ring. Air-conditioners, storage water heaters, built-in ovens and hobs, and EV chargers all fall into this category, and trying to run them off an ordinary shared socket is exactly how circuits overheat and breakers trip. Because a dedicated circuit means a new run and a new breaker, it costs more than a simple socket — from around RM400 depending on the appliance and the distance — but it is the only safe way to power that kind of load, and a registered electrician will insist on it. If several heavy loads are being added at once, the board itself may need attention, which shades into the territory of our rewiring and DB-upgrade guide.
The temptation with any new socket is to feed it from the nearest existing wire, because it is quick and cheap. Sometimes that is perfectly fine; often it is not. Every circuit is designed for a certain load, and quietly adding more points — especially points that will run hungry appliances — can push it past what the cable and breaker were sized for. The result is a circuit that runs warm, trips under load, or in the worst case overheats at a joint. This is the same physics that makes a wall of extension leads dangerous, just hidden inside the wall instead of on the floor. A conscientious electrician checks what a circuit is already carrying before adding to it, and runs a new point from a circuit with headroom — or a new circuit entirely — rather than piling it onto a busy one to save an hour. That judgement is most of the difference between a socket added safely and one added cheaply.
For a typical point the sequence is quick and tidy. The electrician isolates the power at the board, decides the best supply and route, then either chases the wall and lays the cable (concealed) or fixes trunking along the surface, mounts the back box, terminates the socket, and tests it before restoring power. A single straightforward socket is often an hour or two; a handful of points around a room can be a comfortable half-day; concealed work adds time for cutting and, afterwards, for patching and touch-up paint. Because so much of the cost is the visit itself, batching points is the smart way to do it — walk the electrician round and point out every spot you have ever wished had a socket, and get them all done together.
Adding sockets is small enough that pricing should be transparent, and a good quote reflects that. Ask for it per point, with concealed and trunking priced separately so you can choose per location; expect the electrician to check the circuit a new point will feed from rather than just spurring it off the nearest wire; and be a little wary of a price that is far below the rest, because on this job the corner most easily cut is exactly that — overloading an existing circuit instead of running the point correctly. The honest version of this work is cheap and quick anyway, so there is little to gain from the cut-price version and a warm joint in the wall to lose. This is part of a full electrician service, so the same visit can tidy up other niggles at the same time.
A power point looks trivial, and that is precisely why it gets handed to whoever is cheapest — but it is still live mains work, and the failures are hidden and dangerous rather than obvious. Getting the polarity or the earth wrong, spurring a heavy load onto an unsuitable circuit, or leaving a loose terminal are the kinds of mistakes that do not show up until something overheats. Electrical work in Malaysia should be done by a competent person — an electrician registered with Suruhanjaya Tenaga (the Energy Commission) under the Electricity Supply Act 1990 — who will use the right cable and protection, check the circuit before loading it, and terminate the point properly. It is not a job for DIY on live wiring. The small saving from an unqualified hand is not worth a hidden fault behind your wall.
ClickBina adds power points and sockets across Kuala Lumpur and Selangor as the small, careful job it should be — 13A, USB and weatherproof points, concealed or in trunking, each fed from a circuit that can actually carry it and finished so you would never know it was added later. We batch your whole list into one visit for value, price it plainly per point, and flag honestly when a heavy load needs its own dedicated circuit rather than a shortcut. It is one team for the whole electrical side, from a quick socket to a wider electrician service, an electrical safety inspection or a full rewire, and you can plan a budget with our free cost tools. Send us a photo of the wall and where you want the point on WhatsApp — we reply within the hour.
Tell us what you need — we reply within the hour.