Router stuck by the front door? Leave the fibre where it is, move the connection, and plan it before the walls close.
📍 We serve KL, Selangor & Putrajaya.

You usually cannot move the fibre wall point yourself: the fibre termination box belongs to the provider's line, and relocating it is a request you make to unifi, TIME or whichever provider you use, on their terms and charges. What you can control is where the router sits. Most homes get a better result by leaving the fibre point where it is and running an Ethernet cable from it to a central spot, or by adding a mesh node, instead of moving the fibre itself. ClickBina's guides put a structured-cabling data point at RM200 – RM500 and a new socket on surface trunking at RM120 – RM250 (indicative 2026, Klang Valley).
Fibre broadband reaches a home on a thin glass cable. In a condo it comes up the building's telecom riser and along the corridor; in a landed house it arrives from a pole or an underground duct. Where it enters your unit, the installer fixes a small fibre termination box to the wall. From that box a short fibre patch cord goes to the provider's equipment: either a separate fibre modem (often called the ONT) feeding a router, or a single router with the fibre port built in.
Everything after that equipment is ordinary home networking: Wi-Fi, Ethernet cables, switches and mesh nodes. That split matters, because the part before it is the provider's line and the part after it is yours. Most frustration with a badly placed router comes from treating the two as one job.
The usual problem is simple. The first installer put the termination box where the fibre was easiest to bring in: beside the main door, in the store room, behind the TV in the living room, or in a corner of the car porch wall. The router went next to it, and the bedrooms upstairs or at the far end of the condo get a weak signal.
Before calling anyone, sort the job into its parts. The provider's own terms decide who may touch the fibre and the termination box, so confirm with your provider before anyone handles them.
| Part | Who usually handles it | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| Fibre drop cable into the house | The provider | Request a relocation through the provider; charges and waiting time are set by them |
| Fibre termination box on the wall | The provider | Do not open, cut or re-fix it yourself; a damaged fibre needs the provider's splicing tools |
| Fibre patch cord to the modem or router | The provider, or you within its length | You can move the equipment only as far as the cord reaches without strain |
| Router position and Wi-Fi settings | You, or a network installer | Can be changed once the equipment is fed; bridge mode questions go to the provider |
| Ethernet cabling to other rooms | A network or electrical contractor | Your own cabling, laid like any other low-voltage cable |
| Power socket at the new router spot | An electrician | A normal socket job; plan it with the cabling |
Providers' relocation rules, charges and lead times differ and change, so this page does not quote them. Ask your provider directly what a fibre point relocation inside the same unit involves, whether a technician visit is charged, and whether the new position must be within reach of the existing entry.
There are really only three approaches. Pick the one that matches how far the router needs to move and whether walls are being opened anyway.
| Approach | Best when | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Provider moves the fibre termination point | The new spot is close to the current entry and on the same wall run | Provider charges and scheduling; exposed fibre run along the wall; limited how far it can go |
| Leave the fibre point, run Ethernet to a central router or access point | The router needs to move rooms or floors | Needs a cable route: concealed in a renovation, or surface trunking in a finished home |
| Leave everything, add mesh nodes | No cabling is possible and the house is small to medium | Wireless backhaul loses speed with each hop; thick walls make it worse |
In most Klang Valley homes the second option gives the strongest result for the money. The fibre box and the provider's modem stay where they are, an Ethernet cable takes the connection to the middle of the house or to the upper floor, and the main router or a wired mesh node sits there. ClickBina's mesh Wi-Fi guide explains why a wired backhaul beats a wireless one, so it is worth reading before you decide where the cable should end.
A fibre cable carries light down a strand of glass. It survives normal handling, but it does not forgive the habits of general wiring work. Pulling it hard, folding it into a tight bend, crushing it under a cabinet foot, stapling through it or pinching it in a door frame can crack the glass or make the signal drop. A cut fibre cannot be twisted back together like copper; it needs to be spliced with the provider's tools.
A renovation is the cheapest time to fix a badly placed router, because walls and ceilings are open and cables can be hidden. The decision has to be made early, before plastering, skim coat, ceiling boards and built-in carpentry close the routes.
ClickBina's TV and Astro cabling guide covers the cables that usually share the TV wall, so the data, coax and power points can be planned together instead of in three separate visits.
Wi-Fi spreads outward from the router and weakens through every wall, floor slab and cabinet. A router on the floor in a corner, inside a closed metal box, or in a store room behind the kitchen wastes most of its signal on rooms nobody uses.
A TV console is a popular place to hide the router, but a fully closed cabinet with a solid door both traps heat and blocks the signal. If it must go there, leave the front open or vented. Keeping the router, the modem and any camera recorder on a small battery backup is covered in ClickBina's home UPS guide.
An Ethernet cable from the provider's equipment to a better position does the same job as moving the fibre, without involving the provider at all. Use proper network cable (Cat6 is the common choice), terminate it on wall sockets at both ends, and test each run before the walls close. One cable can feed the main router; others can feed a TV, a desk or a wired mesh node upstairs.
In a finished home the cable can run in surface trunking along the skirting or the ceiling edge; in a renovation it goes into conduit and the wall is patched. For a small office or a home with many wired devices, a small network cabinet with a switch keeps the cables tidy. ClickBina's office structured cabling guide explains how data points are planned and tested for larger set-ups.
In a condo, the fibre usually arrives from the corridor through a sleeve above the main door or through a trunking shared with other services. Anything that touches the corridor, the riser or the common wall is common property under the management's rules, so the provider and the management decide how the entry can change. Inside the unit you are free to run your own Ethernet cabling.
In a landed house, the fibre may arrive from a pole and along the outside wall, or through an underground duct to a box at the porch. Moving the entry point to the other side of the house is a much bigger request than shifting the box a short way along the same wall. It is often easier to leave the entry alone and carry the connection indoors on Ethernet to the stairs or the upper floor.
The router and modem need a socket close by. A new socket on surface trunking near the board is the quickest option; a concealed socket chased into the wall is neater but means patching and repainting. ClickBina's guide to adding power points compares the two and explains when a point should be on its own circuit. Avoid powering the network from a multi-plug shared with a heater or a kettle.
The provider sets its own charge for moving the termination point, so confirm that directly. For the cabling and power on your side, these are the ranges ClickBina's guides publish (indicative 2026, Klang Valley).
| Work | Indicative price | Source guide |
|---|---|---|
| Structured cabling data point (network point) | RM200 – RM500 per point | Office structured cabling guide |
| Socket on surface trunking, near the DB | RM120 – RM250 | Adding power points guide |
| Concealed (chased-in) socket | RM200 – RM400 | Adding power points guide |
| Moving the fibre termination point | Set by your provider; confirm with them | Provider |
WhatsApp us your job details for a quote — we reply within the hour. A renovation site visit is free, and a repair inspection is RM180, deducted from the bill if you go ahead. We serve KL, Selangor & Putrajaya.
💬 WhatsApp for a quoteA single Ethernet run to a central router usually costs less than several mesh nodes fighting through concrete walls, and it keeps working at full speed. Price the cable route first, then decide whether you still need extra wireless points.
WhatsApp us your job details for a quote: your area, condo or landed, where the fibre box is now and where you want the router. ClickBina is an experienced KL & Selangor contractor that coordinates the trades for whole-house renovation, so conduits, data points and power points can be planned with the rest of the works. The fibre line itself stays with your provider. We reply within the hour, and the price we agree is a flat price with no hidden charges.
How we price: every RM figure on this page is quoted unchanged from the ClickBina guides named above; they are indicative Klang Valley ranges for 2026. Provider relocation charges are not quoted because they are set by each provider.
WhatsApp us your job details for a quote — we reply within the hour. A renovation site visit is free, and a repair inspection is RM180, deducted from the bill if you go ahead. We serve KL, Selangor & Putrajaya.
💬 WhatsApp for a quoteTell us what you need — we reply within the hour.