The usual reasons a hob will not light or hold a flame, what you can safely check, and when to replace it.

Most gas hob faults come down to four things: no spark (a flat ignition battery, a wet or dirty electrode), a burner that clicks but will not light (a misaligned cap, blocked ports, or no gas reaching it), a flame that dies when you let go of the knob (the flame failure device), and a yellow or weak flame (a dirty burner or a supply problem). If you smell gas, stop, turn the gas off at the cylinder and ventilate before anything else. ClickBina's hood and hob guide lists a built-in gas hob at RM300 – RM2,500 for the unit alone (indicative 2026, Klang Valley), which sets the repair-or-replace line. A site visit for a wider renovation job is RM150, waived if you go ahead.
A hob that will not light is an inconvenience. A hob that smells of gas is a safety problem, and it comes first. The gas smell guide sets out the order: turn off the gas at the cylinder or the isolation valve, do not touch any electrical switch or light a flame, open doors and windows, and leave until the smell has cleared; do not use the cooker again until the system has been checked.
It also notes where most kitchen leaks come from: the rubber hose, its clamps, the regulator, or a burner left on. None of the checks below should be done while there is any smell of gas.
| Symptom | Usual cause | Who deals with it |
|---|---|---|
| No click, no spark at any burner | Flat ignition battery (battery-ignition hobs) or no power to the igniter | Owner: change the battery; then a technician |
| Clicks at one burner but no spark there | Wet or greasy electrode, cracked ceramic insulator | Owner: dry and clean; then a technician |
| Sparks but will not light | Burner cap misaligned, ports blocked, or no gas reaching the burner | Owner: reseat and clean; supply checks by a gas fitter |
| Lights, then goes out when the knob is released | Flame failure device not yet warm, or a faulty thermocouple | Owner: hold the knob in longer; part replacement by a technician |
| Yellow, lazy or sooty flame | Dirty or misaligned burner, or a supply or regulator problem | Owner: clean the burner; supply checks by a gas fitter |
| Weak flame on every burner | Cylinder running low, a faulty regulator, a kinked hose | Gas supplier or a gas fitter |
| Knob stiff or will not turn | Grease in the valve, a worn valve | A technician |
| Cracked glass top | Impact or a hot pan on a cold spot | Stop using it; the top or the hob is replaced |
Many built-in hobs sold here light with a battery-powered igniter; the battery sits in a holder under the hob or behind a panel on the front. When the clicking becomes weak or stops at every burner at once, that battery is the first thing to change. If the hob is mains-powered, check that it is plugged in and that its socket has power.
If only one burner will not spark, look at its electrode, the small white ceramic pin beside the burner. After a boil-over it is often wet or crusted with food. Let it dry completely, clean the tip gently with a dry brush, and try again. A cracked ceramic insulator lets the spark jump to the wrong place and needs the part replaced.
A burner cap that has been lifted off for cleaning and put back slightly askew is the most common reason a burner sparks but does not catch. Seat each cap squarely so it sits flat. Then look at the small ports around the burner head: grease and food block them, and the gas cannot mix and reach the spark. Clean them with a brush or a pin, never a wooden toothpick that can snap off inside, and dry the burner fully before refitting.
If none of the burners will light and all of them spark, the gas is not arriving. The cylinder may be empty, the valve on it closed, or the regulator faulty. Changing a regulator or a hose is a gas job; the hood and hob guide says gas hose connections should always be done by a certified gas fitter.
Good gas hobs have a flame failure device on every burner. ClickBina's kitchen hood and hob guide explains that it automatically cuts the gas supply if the flame goes out, and recommends always specifying it. It works through a small probe, the thermocouple, that sits in the flame and has to warm up before it holds the valve open.
That is why you must hold the knob pressed in for a few moments after the burner lights. If the flame still dies when you let go after a longer hold, the probe may be dirty, bent out of the flame, or faulty. Cleaning and repositioning is simple; replacing the thermocouple is a job for a technician who works on that brand. Never try to wedge a knob in or bypass the device: it is the part that stops gas flowing into a kitchen when a pot boils over and puts the flame out.
A healthy LPG flame is mostly blue. A yellow, lazy flame that leaves soot on the bottom of pots means the gas is not burning cleanly: usually a dirty or misaligned burner, sometimes a supply problem. Clean and reseat the burner parts first. If the whole hob burns weakly, the cylinder may be running low or the regulator failing.
A hob moved from piped gas to LPG, or the other way, needs the correct parts for that gas; a hob running on the wrong set-up burns badly. That conversion, and any work on the regulator, hose or fixed piping, belongs with a competent gas fitter.
Tempered glass tops look clean but can crack from an impact or from a very hot pan set down in the wrong place. A cracked top should not be used: liquid can reach the valves and wiring underneath. Depending on the model and the age of the hob, a replacement top may be available, but on an older hob it often makes more sense to replace the hob.
A knob that has become stiff usually has grease in the valve spindle. Pulling the knob off and cleaning around the spindle can help; a valve that stays stiff or will not turn off fully is a technician's job, not a DIY one.
A hob is usually worth repairing when the fault is a battery, an electrode, a thermocouple or a regulator, and worth replacing when the valves are worn, the top is cracked, or the hob is old. ClickBina's hood and hob guide says a quality hood and hob should last 8 to 15 years with proper maintenance. These are the related ClickBina figures (indicative 2026, Klang Valley):
| Item | Indicative price | Source guide |
|---|---|---|
| Built-in gas hob, unit only | RM300 – RM2,500 | Kitchen hood and hob guide |
| Induction hob, unit only | RM800 – RM5,000+ | Kitchen hood and hob guide |
| Hob installation (countertop cut-out and gas hose) | RM350 | Kitchen hood and hob guide worked example |
| Single home LPG cooker point (regulator, connector, leak test) | RM200 – RM600 | Gas smell guide |
WhatsApp us your job details for a quote — we reply within the hour.
💬 WhatsApp for a quoteIf the new hob is a different size from the old one, the countertop cut-out may need to change. The countertop repair guide explains what can and cannot be done to a stone top around a hob cut-out, and the custom kitchen cabinets page covers a new kitchen if the whole run is due for replacement.
WhatsApp us your job details for a quote: the symptom, the hob type (built-in or freestanding), the brand, and whether you are thinking of replacing it. ClickBina is an experienced KL & Selangor contractor for whole-house refurbishment and trade coordination, and custom kitchen cabinets are part of that work, so a new hob, its countertop cut-out and the gas connection by a competent gas fitter can be sequenced as one job. We reply within the hour, and the price agreed is a flat price with no hidden charges.
Methodology: prices are ClickBina indicative 2026 Klang Valley ranges from the guide named beside each. Gas connections are work for a competent gas fitter.
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